From Benetton to Gucci: Is Briatore closing the circle at Enstone?

An Italian fashion house becoming title sponsor of a Formula 1 team. No, it is not 1983 – it is 2026. The fashion brand in question is not Benetton but Gucci, and the team being sponsored is not Tyrrell but Alpine.

Yet it is hard not to dust off the old French saying l'histoire se répète. Forty years ago, Benetton entered Formula 1 through sponsorship deals with Tyrrell and Alfa Romeo before ultimately buying Toleman and transforming it into a championship-winning operation based in Enstone.

Today, it is not entirely far-fetched to wonder whether Gucci could harbour similar ambitions – particularly given that the team it is now associated with still operates from that very same facility in the English countryside.

After all, Renault has effectively closed the funding tap for the Alpine F1 team following the cancellation of its factory engine programme. The expectation is that part, if not all, of the team currently controlled by Otro Capital will eventually be sold to an external investor.

Mercedes has been mentioned in paddock rumours as a potential buyer, while Christian Horner is also said to be exploring options alongside a group of investors. But why should Gucci limit itself to naming rights? Four decades ago, Benetton showed the way forward – with none other than Flavio Briatore playing a key role.

United Colours of...

Teo Fabi, Toleman TG185 Hart.

Photo by: Motorsport Images

To understand the parallels, it is worth going back in time. The story of Italian clothing giant Benetton did not begin in Formula 1. The company was founded in 1965 by the Benetton family. 

Brothers Luciano, Carlo and Gilberto, together with their sister Giuliana, conquered Europe in the late 1970s with colourful clothing that stood in stark contrast to the drab fashions of the era.

As the company sought expansion into the United States, Luciano Benetton turned to a young entrepreneur named Flavio Briatore at the end of 1979.

Briatore was only 28 years old but had already experienced more than his fair share of business ventures and setbacks. Luciano nevertheless saw potential in the charismatic young Italian.

Both men came from rural backgrounds and shared a dislike for the conventions of conservative Italian society.

Briatore got to work and opened Benetton's first Madison Avenue store in New York in 1980.

Less than five years later, the company had 400 stores across the United States, eventually growing to nearly 800 at its peak.

Benetton became known for being rebellious, provocative and disruptive – qualities that might remind some of Red Bull today. The company combined a keen eye for fashion trends with advertising campaigns built around diversity and anti-racism themes under the famous

"United Colours of..." slogan. The campaigns challenged the establishment and resonated with younger generations.

To reinforce their image, Benetton entered Formula 1. Interestingly, that move was not Briatore's idea. At the time, he was occupied with legal troubles in Italy and was fully focused on expanding Benetton's American business.

Danny Sullivan (Tyrrell 011 Ford) 5th position.

Photo by: Motorsport Images

Instead, the inspiration came from Nanni Galli, a former racing driver who had briefly competed in Formula 1 before joining his family's textile business. The Galli family supplied garments to Benetton, and Nanni introduced Luciano Benetton to the world of motorsport.

For Benetton, Formula 1 represented a powerful marketing tool for the American market. While the United States has often had a complicated relationship with F1, the early 1980s were a period of strong interest, with one, two and at times even three grands prix on the calendar. It was an ideal platform to reach American consumers.

Team sponsorship

Luciano Benetton attended the 1982 Las Vegas Grand Prix and received a tip to sponsor Tyrrell. The team had just won the race with Michele Alboreto, employed American driver Danny Sullivan and seemed a perfect fit.

Benetton agreed, but with one condition. Tyrrell had to part ways with existing sponsor Denim Musk, an aftershave brand. Benetton sold its own fragrances and felt the association with "denim" could create confusion with its clothing business.

Tyrrell accepted, and Benetton-sponsored cars appeared on the grid in 1983. Alboreto won the Detroit Grand Prix that year in the Tyrrell 011B, but Benetton's ambitions quickly outgrew a sponsorship role. After just one season, the partnership came to an end.

In 1984, Benetton switched to Alfa Romeo, attracted in part by American driver Eddie Cheever. The venture proved disappointing. Riccardo Patrese's third-place finish at Monza was the highlight of a largely underwhelming campaign.

Buying Toleman

Gerhard Berger, Benetton B186 BMW.

Photo by: Motorsport Images

Benetton's name remained on the Alfa Romeo cars in 1985, but the relationship had effectively run its course. The company decided the next step was to own a team outright. In May 1985, Benetton purchased the entire Toleman operation for £2 million. Toleman, of course, is the direct ancestor of today's Alpine team.

The Benetton-liveried Toleman-Hart of Teo Fabi made its debut in Monaco, creating the unusual sight of two Benetton-sponsored Alfa Romeos sharing the grid with a Benetton-sponsored Toleman. Although Fabi retired from the race, the event marked the beginning of Benetton's true Formula 1 journey. In 1986, the team was renamed Benetton Formula, with Gerhard Berger and Fabi driving BMW-powered cars.

Briatore takes charge

At that point, Briatore was still nowhere near team management. He had little interest in motorsport and was also dealing with legal issues in Italy that made extended stays abroad particularly appealing.

It was not until the end of 1988, during the Australian Grand Prix, that he attended his first Formula 1 race. There, Benetton asked him to oversee the commercial side of the team.

The rest is history. Briatore helped transform Benetton into a Formula 1 powerhouse. Michael Schumacher was signed, a world-class technical team assembled, and the operation captured Schumacher's first world title in 1994 before securing both championships in 1995.

Throughout that period, Briatore's greatest strength was his commercial instinct. While rival teams were often represented by engineers and technical experts, Briatore remained the smooth-talking dealmaker from rural Italy, constantly looking for opportunities. Whether convincing Schumacher to leave Eddie Jordan, acquiring Ligier to secure Renault engines or negotiating sponsorship deals, he repeatedly found ways to gain a competitive advantage.

Michael Schumacher, Benetton B191 Ford

Photo by: Ercole Colombo / Studio Colombo / Getty Images

Return to Enstone

It is therefore no surprise that Renault brought Briatore back in 2024 as an executive adviser. By then, the company already knew its factory engine project would be discontinued and that its long-term commitment to the team was uncertain. Who better to have on board than Formula 1's ultimate fixer?

Briatore's latest achievement is securing Gucci as a partner. Could another Italian fashion brand become the saviour of the Enstone team? And can Briatore once again achieve what he did 35 years ago with Benetton – reaching the summit of Formula 1?

When the Alpine-Gucci deal was announced, Briatore himself offered a telling remark: "Team Enstone has always been known for doing things differently and has already shown that fashion can finish first in Formula 1."

Perhaps history really does repeat itself.